AHICHHATRAGARH FORT, NAGAUR

A walk through Ahhichatragarh Fort in Nagaur is like a walk thorugh history with its various power struggles and intrigues.  Ahhichatragarh Fort lies in the town of Nagaur, which is at one end of the Thar Desert midway between the cities of Jodhpur and Bikaner.  Built between 1119 and 1121, the fort was a much coveted prize for rulers as Nagaur was a stragetic trade center. Successive maharajas and sultans battled for control and each king made additions to the fort.  The fort’s strategic location made it a very important possession and several battles were fought as a series of rulers attempted to retain supremacy.  The Ahhichatragarh Fort has two temples; one is devoted to Krishna and the other to Ganesha.  Emporer Shah Jahan built a mosque inside the fort complex, when it was under the control of Mughals.  The visitor can see the Rajput and Mughal influenced palaces and buildings, temples, and mosques along with carved baoris, gardens, and a much admired water system, which used to recycle every drop of water and it is in the shadow of this impressive fort that the annual Nagaur Cattle Fair is held.  Reputed to be second largest cattle fair in India, the Nagaur Fair sees camel races, tug-of-war, and folk music and dance, apart from main business of cattle trade.  The nearest airport is at Jodhpur 137 km from Nagaur.  Nagaur is well connected by railways from major Rajasthan cities.  

Trek Along Kumbhalgarh

Much of Rajasthan is pretty, almost ephemeral in its dependence on light and hue for its attraction. The massive 600-year-old ramparts of Kumbalgarh Fort offer altogether more immense substance. The sheer size of it makes one want to believe the local legend that the fortress was impregnable, though it was actually taken once, by a powerful army of Emperor Akbar's Mughal-Rajput alliance. Its walls snake over the rolling Aravalli hills for 36km, like some gargatuan shone python. Its one of teh longest walls anywhere on earth outside China's Great Wall, and if you are feeling adventurous, try hiking along the periphery. It's a two-day trek, and the only places you can stay the night are in some of the many temples along your route. you won't need a guide, but the men selling entry tickets at the fort entrance will find you someone who can cook and lug your load for you, at about Rs 300-400 a day. You will need to haggle, of course. But what price the awesome beauty of that rugged landscape?

Kumbhalgarh is 84km north of Udaipur.

Khichan

At first sight Khichan looks like any small Rajasthani village. But if you were to walk around, you would see hundreds of stately black and grey demoiselle cranes flying over the village and foraging in its fields and if you were to come to Khichan at the crack of dawn, you would find the sky obscured by thousands of these birds, as they wing their way to specially-constructed enclosures in the village. These birds, which migrate every winter from Central Asia, have been congregating in the village for as long as the villages can remember. They come to this area attracted by the vast open scrublands around the village. The villagers lay out grain for the birds twice a day and protect the birds from any disturbance. The birds are part of every aspect of village life, including their harvest songs.

Located 140km northwest of jodhpur, The welcomeheritage lalnivas-02925-223813

Devi Bhawan

At this serene retreat, don't expect the ancient trappings of your classic heritage hotel. Jodhpur's Devi Bhawan melds the amenities of a modern hotel with an intimate sense of being a Rajput family's guest. The cottages are threaded amidst lush gardens: divided into garden rooms, bunglaws and suites, each emphasises the peaceful surrounds. No fussiness and ornate fittings here: each room is cleanly designed, its simple period furniture creating a minimal, spacious atmosphere, TVs, Internet, room service, and massages-what more do you need? Lay out by the pool, lounge in the gazebo and take your meals out in the gardens: the beautiful lawns are the true hightlight of this peaceful sanctuary. Best of all, a stay at this oasis comes at super rates.

Desert National Park

If you thought deserts were dry and therefore boring, try walking through the Desert National Park near Jaisalmer. It covers over 3,162 km and is one of the best examples of desert habitat in the country. The animal and bird life here ranges from the endangered Great Indian Bustard to herds of chinkara, desert cat, desert fox, bird like sand grouses, buzzards, owls, and reptiles like the monitor lizard, saw-scaled viper and the spiny tailed lizard. A few areas of the park, like Sudashri, are enclosed with barbed wire to prevent grazing by cattle. The forest department has demarcated a few trails in this area-which make for a good 3-4 hour walk. To see the rest of the sanctuary, walk through, from Khuri towards Miajalar, Girab, Gadra, and back towards Munabao. You can stay at these villages.

Contact Deputy Director, Desert NP-02922-252498 for permissions. Gangaur Guest House in Khuri can organise 3-4 day Safaris.