Devi Bhawan

At this serene retreat, don't expect the ancient trappings of your classic heritage hotel. Jodhpur's Devi Bhawan melds the amenities of a modern hotel with an intimate sense of being a Rajput family's guest. The cottages are threaded amidst lush gardens: divided into garden rooms, bunglaws and suites, each emphasises the peaceful surrounds. No fussiness and ornate fittings here: each room is cleanly designed, its simple period furniture creating a minimal, spacious atmosphere, TVs, Internet, room service, and massages-what more do you need? Lay out by the pool, lounge in the gazebo and take your meals out in the gardens: the beautiful lawns are the true hightlight of this peaceful sanctuary. Best of all, a stay at this oasis comes at super rates.

Desert National Park

If you thought deserts were dry and therefore boring, try walking through the Desert National Park near Jaisalmer. It covers over 3,162 km and is one of the best examples of desert habitat in the country. The animal and bird life here ranges from the endangered Great Indian Bustard to herds of chinkara, desert cat, desert fox, bird like sand grouses, buzzards, owls, and reptiles like the monitor lizard, saw-scaled viper and the spiny tailed lizard. A few areas of the park, like Sudashri, are enclosed with barbed wire to prevent grazing by cattle. The forest department has demarcated a few trails in this area-which make for a good 3-4 hour walk. To see the rest of the sanctuary, walk through, from Khuri towards Miajalar, Girab, Gadra, and back towards Munabao. You can stay at these villages.

Contact Deputy Director, Desert NP-02922-252498 for permissions. Gangaur Guest House in Khuri can organise 3-4 day Safaris.

Alwar

Alwar is not the most tourist-friendly destination, which is likely a good thing for those seeking classic Rajasthani attractions without the classic Rajasthani tourist hordes. Once the northern entryway to the region, Alwar's strategic location meant that it saw plenty of warfare in its time, until the 17th century when the Rajputs seized it from the jats. Today, Alwar's many palaces and forts reveal its Mughal and Rajput history, and its cuisine and hospitality characterise the best of Rajasthan. The main attraction is Bal Quila, a towering fort that affords a 300m-high view of its surrounds. Just below lies Sagar tank and the City Palace, worth visiting particularly for its museum, which contains a fine array of courtly memorabilia, weaponry, and Arabic and Sanskrit manuscripts. For the dose of Mughal culture, the gold-leaf decoratons and elegant balaconies of Vinay Vilas Palace are nice. Alwar is also the access point to Sariska National Park.

Alwar is 2hr30min from Delhi: Tourist Reception Centre: 0144-2347348.